Oh. Interesting. But your processor isn´t a Tualatin, right? I had always thought only Tualatins came in the FCPGA2 package. And that all Coppermines were FCPGA without IHS.InactiveX wrote:The FCPGA2 spec is a bit vague. Some are pin compatible with FCPGA, some aren't, eg my PIII933 is FCPGA2 with IHS, but it fits on an FCPGA board. Laater FCPGA2 chips have a different pin-out.
So Far So Good: 1.4GHz Tualatin on a BP6
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BP6, RU BIOS, XP SP3, ACPI, 2x366@523(1,95V), Pentalpha HS + 1x 12cm fan @5V, 768MB, Powercolor Geforce 3, RTL8139D NIC, Terratec EWS64L, Samsung M40 80GB (2,5''), LiteOn CDRW
It's not a Tualatin. It is a Coppermine. Some of the faster CuMines come in FCPGA2 packaging, and I'm not quite sure where the boundaries lay. It really confused me when I bought my Abit CUSL2-C board and PIII933 FCPGA2 and I wasn't sure whether they'd get on together. They did though.
Like I said, it's very vague.
Like I said, it's very vague.
Tualatin
hey guys, you can read everything about Piii's at here: http://www.intel.com/design/PentiumIII/ ... 445349.pdf
there is detailed specs of every P3 CPU ever made, serial numbers, SMP compability and support, and so forth...
there is detailed specs of every P3 CPU ever made, serial numbers, SMP compability and support, and so forth...
Well I tried this. The MBM5 complained that the case temp was too high at 163 F (1.5 vcore) . It ran for 4 to 5 days and burnt up the PSU and 8 caps and two coils on the mobo.
I'm now looking for that vtt mod that upgrades those caps etc... And I also noticed the north bridge was cooking so I got a chipset fan for it.
Someone told me to use a cpu terminator in the open cpu socket. This caused all the lights to come on and the computer not to function at all. So whats with these cpu terminators ?
I'm now looking for that vtt mod that upgrades those caps etc... And I also noticed the north bridge was cooking so I got a chipset fan for it.
Someone told me to use a cpu terminator in the open cpu socket. This caused all the lights to come on and the computer not to function at all. So whats with these cpu terminators ?
well I was originally told that it came with the motherboard for when you use a single cpu. Said it made it more stabble. It looks like a cpu without a chip in the middle. just some resisters and stuff on it. It looks very simular to this one:
The one I have is a Dell DP/N: 64VFU Terminator. I guess the BP6 works fine without a cpu terminator.
All 8 1000uf 10v caps were bulging at the top. L-1/L-18 coils were burnt to a crisp.
I was gonna just replace the caps with 1200uf caps and rewind the L-1/L-18 magnet wire but then I found this nifty kit that has all that and more:
The BP6 CapKit includes:
2 @ 100uf /16v low ESR Aluminum Electrolytic.
25@ 1200uf 6.3volt low E.S.R. Aluminum electrolytic.
Solder wick. (aprox 30")
Silver based solder (aprox 5ft)
Kester 44 solder (aprox 3ft)
2 lengths of 18AGW Silver-Teflon wire
Enamel coated magnet wire (aprox 18")
Photo of wiring mod.
Basic instructions.
Notes:
1) L-1 & L-18 should be direct wired to the 5 volt ATX connections on the bottom side of the board (see included picture).
2) C-10 is replaced with a 1200uf 8mm cap.
3) Replace all caps rated 1000uf and above with 1200uf .
4) Replace EC-29/30 with the 100uf/16volt caps supplied.
5) If L-1/L-18 show signs of severe overheating, they must be re-wound. Remove the coil assy rom the board, un-wind the coil & straighten the wire, cut a new length of magnet wire to match the old length + 1 inch.Use a toothbrush to clean the burnt paint from the ferrite cores, coat the core with clear fingernail polish & let it dry for about 10 minutes, Use sandpaper or a razer blade to remove the enamal coating aprox 1/2" on each end, pre-tin the ends with the silver solder supllied, re-wind the coils exactly the way it was wound from the factory (should be seven complete turns), clean the plate-thru holes, install the coils flush, solder & trim the leads to 1/8" , add the silver-Teflon jumpers by wrapping the silver wire around the trimmed lead 1 complete turn.Connect the other end of the jumpers to the 5volt atx connections on the bottom side of the board (5 volt lines are the pins that connect to the 2 red wires at the corner of the ATX plug.
I use a small dab of silicone glue to hold the wires flush to the bottom of the board, that way it's less likely to snag them during future changes/mods/upgrades.
Price: $26.50 + 3.85 Shipping inside the U.S. $8.85 Shipping outside the U.S.
http://www.motherboardrepair.com/index. ... it&kit=bp6
The one I have is a Dell DP/N: 64VFU Terminator. I guess the BP6 works fine without a cpu terminator.
All 8 1000uf 10v caps were bulging at the top. L-1/L-18 coils were burnt to a crisp.
I was gonna just replace the caps with 1200uf caps and rewind the L-1/L-18 magnet wire but then I found this nifty kit that has all that and more:The BP6 CapKit includes:
2 @ 100uf /16v low ESR Aluminum Electrolytic.
25@ 1200uf 6.3volt low E.S.R. Aluminum electrolytic.
Solder wick. (aprox 30")
Silver based solder (aprox 5ft)
Kester 44 solder (aprox 3ft)
2 lengths of 18AGW Silver-Teflon wire
Enamel coated magnet wire (aprox 18")
Photo of wiring mod.
Basic instructions.
Notes:
1) L-1 & L-18 should be direct wired to the 5 volt ATX connections on the bottom side of the board (see included picture).
2) C-10 is replaced with a 1200uf 8mm cap.
3) Replace all caps rated 1000uf and above with 1200uf .
4) Replace EC-29/30 with the 100uf/16volt caps supplied.
5) If L-1/L-18 show signs of severe overheating, they must be re-wound. Remove the coil assy rom the board, un-wind the coil & straighten the wire, cut a new length of magnet wire to match the old length + 1 inch.Use a toothbrush to clean the burnt paint from the ferrite cores, coat the core with clear fingernail polish & let it dry for about 10 minutes, Use sandpaper or a razer blade to remove the enamal coating aprox 1/2" on each end, pre-tin the ends with the silver solder supllied, re-wind the coils exactly the way it was wound from the factory (should be seven complete turns), clean the plate-thru holes, install the coils flush, solder & trim the leads to 1/8" , add the silver-Teflon jumpers by wrapping the silver wire around the trimmed lead 1 complete turn.Connect the other end of the jumpers to the 5volt atx connections on the bottom side of the board (5 volt lines are the pins that connect to the 2 red wires at the corner of the ATX plug.
I use a small dab of silicone glue to hold the wires flush to the bottom of the board, that way it's less likely to snag them during future changes/mods/upgrades.
Price: $26.50 + 3.85 Shipping inside the U.S. $8.85 Shipping outside the U.S.
http://www.motherboardrepair.com/index. ... it&kit=bp6
