I finally recieved my other bp6 board, and when I recieved it, someone used sticky pad of some kind to attach a, blue thermal like blue orb on the chipset for cooling. I thought it was a good idea, tho I wanted to use arctic silver instead of some sticky/melted substance, but i quickly realized that the holes didnt line up, and the green sink was no longer around.
I went to the store yesterday to pick up a chipset cooler set, and I picked up a vantec cooler and it fit perfectly over the chipset. I also am using global win hsf on this board since it already had them. I also attached a smaller sink onto the chipset thats underneath the hpt366 chip, Dont know wether that would help or not.
This board can actually run at anything above 100fsb, it boots up all the way to 110, although win2k goes into nosedive shortly after it posts @ 110fsb. Its only been a couple days, but Ive left the machine on idling with win2k with a stupid screensaver on @ 108fsb.
Before I left to work, I checked the cpu temp and holy crap has it been getting quite hot, system temp was 115ºF, with cpu1 @ 99/102ºF, and cpu2 @ 105/106ºF, and the cpus are just 1 stamp number apart, so theoredically a perfect match. I have some exhaust fans that you screw into the place where the cards would go. Would it be better to just leave the case off with this heatwave, or use multiple fans to exhaust the heat while it brings in new cooler air from the intake fan? The computer does not crash at idle, but if you were to say, make it crunch numbers, it will go for a lil bit until a hardlock. Im thinking I need some better cooling to take the place of the globalwin hsf combo.
A/C temp is around 81ºF
128mb ram pc100 installed
(one 64mb pc100 generic + two matching 32mb pc100 generics)
Using a Radeon 7200 SDR 32mb PCI card
Modified ultra66 controller ----> Raid FastTrak66 controller
Bios revision RU with hpt366
Dual 366's @ 594 with 2.1V
Extensive exhaust system / chipset cooler / cpu HOT
Re: Extensive exhaust system / chipset cooler / cpu HOT
It all really depends on how well your case is designed to handle air-flow. If it's an old or cheap case, you may be better off leaving the lid off.gabumon wrote:Would it be better to just leave the case off with this heatwave, or use multiple fans to exhaust the heat while it brings in new cooler air from the intake fan?
More modern cases are designed with air-flow in mind, so taking the lid off will actually impede performance. I suggest you look at the movement of air around your case, which is just as important as good chip cooling IMO - you can have the best heatsinks in the world but they'll be useless if there is no air-flow to and from the case.
I have my BP6 in a Cooler Master ATCS case - http://www.mikhailtech.com/articles/cases/atc710/ - which I really love. Apart from looking great, it has space for two 80mm fans at the front and two more at the back. I have two high performance fans at the low-front of the case to draw in air, and a lower power fan at the top-back to exhaust.
Also make sure that there isn't too much clutter in your case. Rounded cables can make a significant improvement to air-flow.
the case its working out of currently is an old "ultra" case, old as being, one solid case cover covers the entire case, and no real support for cooling aside 1 intake fan towards the bottom front of the case.
I do have a supermicro full tower chassis that has 3 intake fans with a filter and could support several fans along the drives etc, but that is at work with a dual ppro 200, loud with tornado fans x 3.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm........
that chassis aside from the front piece looks just like a vantec chassis, I know where I can purchase one, but it has a black plate in front.
I do have a supermicro full tower chassis that has 3 intake fans with a filter and could support several fans along the drives etc, but that is at work with a dual ppro 200, loud with tornado fans x 3.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm........
that chassis aside from the front piece looks just like a vantec chassis, I know where I can purchase one, but it has a black plate in front.
Yup, it's pretty much the same case. Same chassis, just different cosmetically.
Oh, and coolest of all to a geek like me, you can buy a side panel with a window already installed.
http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/product.php?view=2025
I'm getting one with a blue cathode lamp to go with it. My dremel skills have never been up to much, so having the panel already modded is good for me!
Note to DD: How is the case mods section shaping up?
Oh, and coolest of all to a geek like me, you can buy a side panel with a window already installed.
http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/product.php?view=2025
I'm getting one with a blue cathode lamp to go with it. My dremel skills have never been up to much, so having the panel already modded is good for me!
Note to DD: How is the case mods section shaping up?
If todays cases bring more ventilation and bring heat away from the board, ill go pick up one tonight and see how heated\cooled system will be.
Seems only if I can bring down the temps down, the o/c will be worthy.
Also, the voltage regulators, if it didnt spike up between 1.48 ~ 1.53 maybe it would help being more stable??
I seen some picture on the frontpage of bp6 last night but it wasnt there anymore.
Seems only if I can bring down the temps down, the o/c will be worthy.
Also, the voltage regulators, if it didnt spike up between 1.48 ~ 1.53 maybe it would help being more stable??
I seen some picture on the frontpage of bp6 last night but it wasnt there anymore.
gabumon,
If you are really concerned about the high temp of your CPUs - get (2) EverCool 715 or 725 copper HS+70mm fan, plus copper shims <$40total. At www.nexfan.com. Your CPUs will stay under 90 degrees up to 600MHz.
Make sure to lay a good load of Artic Silver down too & shave a few more degrees off your avg. temp. You can't believe how good these work!
If you are really concerned about the high temp of your CPUs - get (2) EverCool 715 or 725 copper HS+70mm fan, plus copper shims <$40total. At www.nexfan.com. Your CPUs will stay under 90 degrees up to 600MHz.
Make sure to lay a good load of Artic Silver down too & shave a few more degrees off your avg. temp. You can't believe how good these work!
Too much meaning too thick a layer? Or too much spill-over into bad areas? I wiggle the sink around until the extra paste gets squeezed out.
I'm concerned that the challenge of attaching big HSinks causes a lot of the paste to get pushed off the CPU before the final positioning of the sink gets done right. With too little at the start, you can end up with most of it gone from the gap it needs to be filling.
I'm using copper shims with cutouts sized for a celeron die (big) on the P-III CPU. Most of the excess Artic Silver gets squeezed into this empty hollow around the P-III die. I don't think it can cause any shorting in this area as it should be insulated.
I do think the spread zone around the die gives a slightly improved area of contact with heatsink & slightly better cooling. My goal is to use enough paste to give a blob of contact area with the sink about 50% larger than the actual die area.
I'm concerned that the challenge of attaching big HSinks causes a lot of the paste to get pushed off the CPU before the final positioning of the sink gets done right. With too little at the start, you can end up with most of it gone from the gap it needs to be filling.
I'm using copper shims with cutouts sized for a celeron die (big) on the P-III CPU. Most of the excess Artic Silver gets squeezed into this empty hollow around the P-III die. I don't think it can cause any shorting in this area as it should be insulated.
I do think the spread zone around the die gives a slightly improved area of contact with heatsink & slightly better cooling. My goal is to use enough paste to give a blob of contact area with the sink about 50% larger than the actual die area.
RRLedford wrote:gabumon,
If you are really concerned about the high temp of your CPUs - get (2) EverCool 715 or 725 copper HS+70mm fan, plus copper shims <$40total. At www.nexfan.com. Your CPUs will stay under 90 degrees up to 600MHz.
Make sure to lay a good load of Artic Silver down too & shave a few more degrees off your avg. temp. You can't believe how good these work!
RRLedford, I had a pair of evercool 715's but I sold them with the previous board I had, althought I did like them much more over what im using now. Im testing the global wins, but im seriously considering buying the evercool hsf's again.....(only using the global wins since they came along)
BUT this time im thinking I would prefer a little more airflow, maybe the 725's? but I never had the shims, what good are these? to make sure you dont crush the core or something?
I never did pick up the antec case, I really dont think im going to shell out $150 for something I dont need. I stopped at the store to observe it and it only really offers few fans to blow out air, dont get me wrong, im sure its a kickass case tho,but ........screw that, I have 6 old "ultra" cases, and you bet I am going to use one of those powerblower fans to seriously insert air into the case with a high rpm fan used at the lower bottom front for an exhaust, as the board stands, Its able to boot and post and goes into win2k with everything up to 100 ~ 110 dsb, but 110 it gets done loading, and viola, hardlock. 108 fsb idle is fine + hot + try to run something and your bound to get a blue screen or a lock.
I got some information about the board that I got from a friend, one of his friends aided him to overclocking it to 500 for the last year and a half, and looks like the cpu's been burned in, thus allowing me to run past 100 fsb and gaining higher speeds? Also someone was careless and tried to use larger sinks than allowable and scraped all the caps along the top and bottom/gouging the green outer layer right off of em.
You really should use the minimum to start with. It's been proven in numerous scientific tests, including by Arctic Silver themselves! Like DD said, too much is worse than none at all. Always use the thinnest layer you can possibly make.RRLedford wrote:I'm concerned that the challenge of attaching big HSinks causes a lot of the paste to get pushed off the CPU before the final positioning of the sink gets done right. With too little at the start, you can end up with most of it gone from the gap it needs to be filling.
The lower part of the case is cooler -- remember, heat rises. So use the lower fans as intake and the higher ones as exhaust if you want the best cooling.gabumon wrote: ........screw that, I have 6 old "ultra" cases, and you bet I am going to use one of those powerblower fans to seriously insert air into the case with a high rpm fan used at the lower bottom front for an exhaust.
I was thinking about that yesterday, but the case i have once again only has the power supply blowing air out its back.
Im trying to find my cam and some webspace to post a picture of the fan im going to "attach" to the case.
While here at work, ever seen server racks, then they alsop have ones that are completely closed with a door in front and in back and have a nice 11" or 12" fan fan on top of the cabinet to blow in nice cooled air.
the cabinet we had was reused somewhere else and I managed to take the fan at my desk. This would perform very well if attached to a side of a case...... but my powerblower fan is just as powerful and more square.
let me get everything situtated and ill keep in touch
Im trying to find my cam and some webspace to post a picture of the fan im going to "attach" to the case.
While here at work, ever seen server racks, then they alsop have ones that are completely closed with a door in front and in back and have a nice 11" or 12" fan fan on top of the cabinet to blow in nice cooled air.
the cabinet we had was reused somewhere else and I managed to take the fan at my desk. This would perform very well if attached to a side of a case...... but my powerblower fan is just as powerful and more square.
let me get everything situtated and ill keep in touch
Yes, too think of a layer. Wiggling the heat sink around on the paste is not good for thermal conductivity as you will uneven the spread. My technique is to spread the right amount on the slug with a sterilized needle (or toothpick if I must) and set the heat sink up once (as to not mess up my nice spread). If the heat sink and fan combo is too large to work with I take off the fan and then screw it on once the heat sink is secured.RRLedford wrote:Too much meaning too thick a layer? Or too much spill-over into bad areas? I wiggle the sink around until the extra paste gets squeezed out.
I'm concerned that the challenge of attaching big HSinks causes a lot of the paste to get pushed off the CPU before the final positioning of the sink gets done right. With too little at the start, you can end up with most of it gone from the gap it needs to be filling.
There is a more technical reason for not wiggling the heat sink on the thermal compound but I’ve forgotten it. I’ll go look it up and report back.
Heres an idea of what I have, I dont think the unit is as robusk as this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 1782392677
Just imagine how windy it would be inside that poor case.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 1782392677
Just imagine how windy it would be inside that poor case.....