366: SL36C or SL35S. Any experiences???

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marqus
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366: SL36C or SL35S. Any experiences???

Post by marqus »

HI,

i had in mind, that when i used to had the bp6 with two cellys on it (366), it was the SL36C series, that went better on overclocking. Now i bought the stuff again. I have a BP6, one SL35S and one SL36C. The 36C wont run at all at 550, the 35S did so at the first try.
What do you know, which series is better? Where ist the difference anyway? And should i look for another 35S or TWO other 36C :-) ???

thanks,
marqus
jaybird
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SL35S or SL35C?

Post by jaybird »

More important than the "S" codes, are the slugs flat? (lapped?)are you using a good heat sink compound? (Arctic Silver?) are your heat sinks adequate? (like the GlobalWIN FEP-32?) and most important, are you doing active cooling on the BX chipset?

With all the above I has running both an SL35S and an SL35C @584 and would go into windows but not stable @ 608!

OBTW, added 72W Peltiers to the FEP-32's (air cooled) and a "Mini-Peltier" found on ebay to the BX and it was stable @ 608 for many years!

The only other concern was a good 300W PS and PC133 memory.

regards,

jaybird
marqus
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Post by marqus »

Hi,

sorry, i dont know the word slugs. what exactly do you want to tell me?
Is S better than C and is 35 better than 36???
Hm, still dont know :-)
With FSB 100 the BX does not need active fan cooling.
Thanks
hyperspace
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Post by hyperspace »

SL35S is "Boxed" and SL36C is "OEM".

They are identical in terms of specifications.
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jaybird
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Post by jaybird »

Sorry about the "slang" term "slug".

The term "slug" referes to the top raised bronze colored portion of the CPU.

Most Celerons are not flat in this area and because of this they are not able to efficently transfer heat to the heat sink mounted on top of the "slug" or raised portion of the CPU.

Quite often over-clockers will "lap" the CPU using various grades of wet sandpaper. You should be able to find good information on this in this as well as many other "overclocking" forums.

The object of lapping is two-fold, number one to assure a flat surface for even and total contact of the CPU to the heatsink but also to polish the surface to an almost mirror like finish to allow for the best pssible heat ransfer to the heat sink.

The ultimate out come is reduced operating temps which in turn allow for better stability and possibly higher clock speeds when attempting to over-clock.

Good lapping takes time and a perfectly flat surface on which to do the lapping, an old mirror works well.

Regards,

jaybird
jaybird
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Post by jaybird »

OBTW, IMHO the BX chip set ALWAYS benefits from some form of active cooling, if you don't believe me, put your finger on the BX heat sink when you have two 366's at full load at 100 mhz fsb for several minutes. You will gain "wisdom" on the tip of your finger in a hurry :shock:

Definition of "wisdom": "Wisdom is knowledge rightfully applied" :wink:

Regards,

jaybird
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Post by InactiveX »

jaybird wrote:Quite often over-clockers will "lap" the CPU using various grades of wet sandpaper. You should be able to find good information on this in this as well as many other "overclocking" forums.
Have a peek at Derek's KB article here.
jaybird wrote:OBTW, IMHO the BX chip set ALWAYS benefits from some form of active cooling, if you don't believe me, put your finger on the BX heat sink when you have two 366's at full load at 100 mhz fsb for several minutes. You will gain "wisdom" on the tip of your finger in a hurry icon_eek.gif
Agreed. Using dual CPUs puts more strain on the BX. Overclocking only adds to the strain. I have a GlobalWin LAC08 on mine.
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marqus
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Post by marqus »

Thanx guys,

i once "lapped" my cellys too in 1999, I think. Do you think, that the boxed ones at the time were of better quality than the OEM ones?
Hm, i will try all of them and will find the right pair.

thanks,
marqus
davd_bob
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Post by davd_bob »

marqus wrote:Thanx guys,

i once "lapped" my cellys too in 1999, I think. Do you think, that the boxed ones at the time were of better quality than the OEM ones?
Hm, i will try all of them and will find the right pair.

thanks,
marqus
I don't think boxed vs OEM is important. More likely the previous live ov a cpu, and if it was ever allowed to over heat, or if it was ever over-powered is more a concern.

I like your idea of the trying them all and using the best combo.

And slapping an old '486 cooling fan on the BX will produce noticable results. Sure the chip may work at first with only passive cooling, but after it will grow more unstable as time passes, and you cant really replace the BX440 chip, so why risk it.
There are *almost* no bad BP6s. There are mostly bad caps.

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